DIY Bath Setup.
DIY Bath Setup.
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We have encountered this great article relating to Installing A Bathtub directly below on the net and accepted it made good sense to write about it with you here.
Setting up a bath tub isn't exactly brain surgery, but it does require strong plumbing, woodworking, and in some cases, tiling abilities. Changing an old bathtub with a brand-new one is also a moderately tough task. If the old tub is easily obtainable, the project can move immediately; if you need to open a wall surface to get rid of the old tub and position the new bathtub, the job is much harder. In either case, the job is within a house handyman's abilities, although you will certainly require a helper to move out the old tub and set in the new one. Ensure you have actually certified on your own for the work as well as fit trying it. As opposed to hiring a contractor to take over a halfway-completed job, it is much better to think about utilizing one before you start. Opportunities are you might require a specialist plumber to make tube links.
This write-up will certainly aid you mount a brand-new bath tub in your shower room if you have actually already purchased a new tub and do not need to alter the plan of your previous supply of water pipes.
Your tools and material checklist should comprise the following:
Removing Old Touches
If you need to replace old taps with brand-new ones as a part of your installment, after that the first thing you must do is detach the supply of water. After doing so, turn on the taps to drain pipes any type of water remaining in the system. The process of getting rid of the existing faucets can be rather troublesome as a result of the limited access that is often the instance.
Make use of a container wrench (crowsfoot spanner) or a tap tool to reverse the nut that links the supply pipes to the faucets. Have a towel prepared for the staying water that will originate from the pipes. Once the supply pipelines have actually been eliminated, use the very same device to loosen the nut that holds the taps onto the bath/basin. You will certainly need to stop the solitary faucets from turning during this process. As soon as the taps have been gotten rid of, the holes in the bath/basin will certainly have to be cleansed of any type of old sealing substance.
Prior to moving on to fit the brand-new taps, contrast the pipe connections on the old faucets to the brand-new taps. If the old faucets are longer than the brand-new taps, after that a shank adapter is required for the new taps to fit.
Suitable New Taps
If the tails of the brand-new faucets are plastic, then you will certainly require a plastic connector to stop damage to the string. One end of the port fits on the plastic tail of the tap and also the other end supplies a connection to the current supply pipes.
If you need to fit a monobloc, after that you will certainly need lowering couplers, which connects the 10mm pipeline of the monobloc to the basic 15mm supply pipeline.
Next, place the tap in the installing opening in the bath/basin guaranteeing that the washing machines remain in place in between the tap and also the sink. Secure the faucet in position with the producer given backnut. Once the faucet is securely in position, the supply pipes can be linked to the tails of the faucets. The taps can either be linked by using corrugated copper piping or with normal faucet connectors. The former kind should be linked to the faucet ends initially, tightening only by hand. The supply pipes can later be attached to the other end. Tighten up both ends with a spanner after both ends have actually been connected.
Setting up the Bath tub
Using both wood boards under its feet, place the tub in the called for position. The wooden boards are handy in evenly spreading out the weight of the tub over the area of the boards instead of focusing all the weight onto 4 tiny points.
The next objective is to make certain that the bathtub is leveled all round. This can be accomplished by inspecting the level and also adjusting the feet on the bathtub up until the level reviews level.
To install faucets, fit all-time low of the outermost flexible tap port to the proper supply pipeline by making a compression sign up with; then do the same for the other faucet.
Turn on the water and check all joints and new pipework for leakages as well as tighten them if essential. Load the tub as well as additionally check the overflow outlet and the normal outlet for leakages.
Lastly, deal with the bathroom paneling as defined in the manufacturer's instruction manual. Tiling and sealing around the bathtub ought to wait up until the bathtub has been used a minimum of once as this will settle it into its final position.
Preparing for the Setup
Firstly, the sustaining structure provided with the bathroom must be fitted (if needed) according to the producer's directions. Next, fit the taps or mixer to the bathtub. When fitting the tap block, it is important to make sure that if the tap features a plastic washing machine, it is fitted in between the bathroom and the taps. On a plastic bath, it is also reasonable to fit a sustaining plate under the faucets system to avoid strain on the bathtub.
Fit the flexible faucet ports to the bottom of the two faucets making use of 2 nuts as well as olives (in some cases provided with the bathtub). Fit the plug-hole electrical outlet by smearing mastic filler round the sink outlet hole, and afterwards pass the electrical outlet with the hole in the bath. Use the nut provided by the producer to fit the plug-hole. Analyze the plug-hole outlet for an inlet on the side for the overflow pipeline.
Next off, fit the end of the flexible overflow pipeline to the overflow outlet. After that, screw the pipeline to the overflow face which must be fitted inside the bath. See to it you utilize all of the provided washers.
Connect the catch to the bottom of the waste electrical outlet on the bathtub by winding the string of the waste electrical outlet with silicone mastic or PTFE tape, and screw on the catch to the electrical outlet. Attach the bottom of the overflow tube in a similar manner.The bathroom must now be ready to be fitted in its last setting.
Tiling Around the Bathtub
In the location where the bath meets the ceramic tile, it is necessary to secure the joins with a silicone rubber caulking. This is important as the installation can move enough to split an inflexible seal, triggering the water to penetrate the wall surface between the bathroom as well as the tiling, bring about problems with wetness as well as feasible leaks to the ceiling below.
You can select from a variety of coloured sealers to assimilate your fixtures and also fittings. They are marketed in tubes as well as cartridges, and can sealing spaces up to a size of 3mm (1/8 inch). If you have a larger space to fill, you can load it with twists of soaked newspaper or soft rope. Bear in mind to always load the bathtub with water prior to sealing, to enable the activity experienced when the tub remains in use. The sealer can fracture relatively early if you do not take into account this movement prior to securing.
Alternatively, ceramic coving or quadrant floor tiles can be used to edge the bathroom or shower tray. Plastic strips of coving, which are easy to use and cut to dimension, are additionally quickly available on the market. It is recommended to fit the floor tiles using waterproof or waterproof sticky and also grout.
How to Install or Replace a Bathtub
Find Your Dimensions
The first step in any bathtub installation or replacement is to select the right size tub for your bathroom. Start by measuring your existing bathtub’s alcove from wall to wall. The standard size for bathtubs is around 5 feet long and 30 or 32 inches wide. Purchase the size that’s closest to your previous tub.
After you’ve measured, you’ll need to figure out what type of tub you need. Face the alcove. If the drain is on the right-hand side, you’ll need a right drain tub. If it’s on the left, get a left drain tub. Easy enough, right?
Disconnect the Water Supply and Drain Assembly
Before you can start on your removal, make sure that you turn off the tub’s water supply. Some bathrooms have a shutoff valve, but if you don’t see one, you’ll need to turn off the supply at your house’s water main. Once the water’s off, open the valves to release any remaining air in the supply lines.
Then, disconnect the tub drain flange. This process varies based on the type of drain you have, but in most cases, you’ll need a drain flange removal tool to perform this task. If you’re feeling handy, you might be able to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to twist and pull the flange.
Now comes the fun part. In order to disconnect the drain assembly, you’ll need to be able to get to the space underneath the tub. You might need to access the tub drain from a crawlspace or a basement. Don’t forget to take a pipe wrench with you, as you’ll need it to loosen the pipe at the connection.
Cut Out the Old Tub
After removing the drainpipe assembly, you can take out the old bathtub. Cut a strip above the tub edge in the wall surrounding the bathtub that's about 6 inches in height. The tools you need here may vary depending on the type of wall surround you have in the alcove. If you’re cutting drywall, use a drywall saw and remove the section of the wall all the way down to the studs. If you have tile, you’ll need to use a grinder with a diamond blade to cut through the grout line. Then, use a chisel to remove the individual tiles. Take care here not to cut through any studs.
Find the tub flange. Remove the screws that attach the flange to the studs in the wall. At this point, the tub should be freed from the wall.
Once you’ve removed the flange, use a utility knife to cut away the caulk between the tub and the floor. When this is done, you should be able to lift the tub up and out of the alcove. Keep in mind that, depending on what it’s made of, the old tub could be tremendously heavy. You should plan to have a friend help you move it just in case.
Install the New Tub
Before you make any adjustments to the area, place the new tub in the alcove to make sure it fits properly and that the tub drain lines up with the P-trap underneath the floor.
Remove it and install a 2 x 4 ledger board. Measure the tub’s flange, then mark that height on the wall. Screw the ledger board to studs in the wall. This will help to support the weight of the tub.
Once the ledger board has been installed, go ahead and secure the drain to the tub. For this step, you’ll need some plumber’s putty. Roll a small amount of putty in your hands and wrap it around the underside of the drain flange. Push the drain into the tub from underneath the tub.
When the drain has been attached, connect the overflow drain. To do this, you’ll place the gasket on the overflow elbow and move it behind the tub. Once that’s on, connect the overflow pipe and the drainpipe, but take care not to overtighten.
Secure the Tub
After the connections are in, it’s time to set the tub in place. Before you start, make sure the flange lines up with the markings you made in Step 4. Because the ledger board holds the tub in place, it’s important that it matches up. If not, you’ll need to remove it and readjust.
Once your measurements line up, attach the flange to the studs on all three sides of the wall. Please note that you should not screw the flange to the wall. Instead, you should use roofing nails because they won’t rust over time. When the tub is in place, install the baseboard and the molding in front of and around the tub.
Repair and finish off the drywall or tile that you cut in Step 3. If you’re installing a fiberglass bath surround, now’s the time to adhere it to the alcove.
Then, enjoy your tub! While all these steps might seem intimidating, removing and installing a new bathtub is a relatively easy DIY project that can be completed in a single day. And now, when you settle in for your next bubbly soak, you can enjoy your bath without the distraction of a tub in disrepair.
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